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Arhitektura
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3 novembra, 2015

PLASTENJE OKUSOV

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V Zgornji Kungoti se srečajo vrhunski chef in dva arhitekta. Pade določitev, da bodo razširili hišo. Sliši se kot začetek vica in glede na sproščeno vzdušje, ki vlada med pogovorom med arhitektoma in kuharjem sklepam, da je bilo sodelovanje več kot prijetna izkušnja. Toda v resnici gre za biznis. Gre za izkušenega kuharja-podjetnika z vizijo ter dva izbrana arhitekta, ki sta mu pomagala to vizijo prenesti na papir in nato v realnost.

Lastnik objekta in glavni chef, Gregor Vračko, je svojo kuharsko pot začel za maminim štedilnikom v gostišču Denk. Danes se je, po tem, ko je delal v najboljših restavracijah v Avstriji, Nemčiji, Angliji in Ameriki, vrnil v Zgornjo Kungoto ter mami prevzel štedilnik.

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Kulinarični kritiki ga opisujejo kot divjega chefa z vrhunskim znanjem in tehnikami, ki se ne boji plastenja okusov in arom. Kosilo, ki nam ga postreže med pogovorom, draži vsa čutila. Vračko je eden izmed redkih slovenskih kuharjev z oceno izven kategorije – kritiki so mu prisodili kar pol sončka nad petimi. Toda na deželi je voditi posel dosti težje kot v mestu, ne glede na sloves. “Ljudje ti v prostor ne padejo kar is pasaže,” pravi. Zato je gostišče Denk s široko skupino kreativcev preoblikoval v blagovno znamko Hiša Denk, kjer se ne profilira več zgolj s hrano, pač pa na visok nivo postavi celotno izkušnjo obedovanja.

Ko govorimo o dobrih gostilniških ambientih, Gregor Vračko poudari, da je pomembno, da so vkomponirani v okolje in prostor, kateremu pripadajo.  Čeprav je objekt hiše Denk izjemno sodoben v svoji obliki in materialnosti (in tako kar malo tuj v Zgornji Kungoti), pa je vstavljen v okolico s preprosto zasnovo: nekoliko prezidanemu staremu objektu sta dodani dve lameli: ena, ki obiskovalca nagovori s ceste in druga, v kateri obiskovalec obdan z vrtom uživa v svojem obroku. Čeprav bi dodani lameli lahko izpadli kot klasičen (slovenski) prizidek, sta skozi jasno zasnovo in funkcijo pravzaprav nadgradnja tako obstoječega objekta kot njegove okolice.

 

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Vhodna lamela, pozicionirana tako, da se jo iz mariborske smeri vidi že na daleč, sprejme v skorajda posvečen ambient – tla v temnem tekstilu, stene, oblečene v les in opeko ter vidna strešna konstrukcija –, ki obiskovalca tako senzorično kot akustično preseneti in ga usmeri proti jedilnici. Vhodni prostor bo namenjen sprejemu gostov ter showroomu domačih proizvodov.

Druga – južna ali vrtna – lamela, čeprav sorodnih proporcev, govori popolnoma drugačno zgodbo: paviljonska zasnova se z vidno zunanjo jekleno konstrukcijo in ogromnimi steklenimi površinami odpira na vrt gospodarice Denk. Objekt zaradi funkcionalnih razlogov ne sledi rahlemu padcu terena in na vrt se tako spoštljivo opira na zgolj šestih točkah.

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Obstoječi objekt sta arhitekta biroja AB objekt zgolj nekoliko adaptirala – z dodanim dobrim metrom prostora proti južni strain sta uravnovesila proporec hiše in nekoliko povečala jedilniški prostor. Južno lamelo sta od obstoječega objekta umaknila in s tem pridobila dva svetlobna atrija z zelenjem.

Obe lameli povezuje velika zunanja terasa, ki nadaljuje ritem stebrov nadstreška vhodne lamele in jo navidezno dematerializira proti vrtu.

M_LOZAR_DENK_DSC_0021-(4)

Notranjost objekta je bogata z materiali; prevladuje les – ščetkan in oljen parket, barvan (črn) les, leseno ostrešje in pohištvo . Zunanjost je artikulirana podobno, fasade so obložene s sibirskim macesnom, iz macesna so tudi senčila. Poleg lesa v prostoru najdemo temno keramiko, kamin iz surovega betona, valujoče zavese, vidno jekleno konstrukcijo ter pogled na neskončno naravo … Morda bi v kakšnem drugem kontekstu takšno preobilje površinske obdelave prostor prenasičilo, v hiši Denk pa dovoljuje, da preprosti beli prti izstopijo iz teksturiranega ozadja.

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Hiša Denk tako presega svojo lokalnost. Predvsem miselno. Gregor Vračko je svojo znamko zastavil drzno za svoj prostor, drzno za Slovenijo. Z oblikovanjem celostne podobe, preko keramike (atelje Ivana Petan), pozornosti v strežbi in pripravi mize, oblikovanja kolekcije domačih produktov ter izbora dekoracije (prevladujejo starine ter umetniška dela), pa do sedmih luksuznih sob, ki so dodane gostišču, se izkušnja obedovanja v Hiši Denk ne zaključi s sladico.

M_LOZAR_DENK_DSC_0238-(4)

 

Hiša Denk, Zgornja Kungota

 Besedilo: Alja Košir

Fotografije: Matej Lozar

Arhitektura: AB Objekt: Boštjan Matul, Dominik Sagadin

Naročnik: Gregor Vračko

Izvedba: 2015

 

Besedilo je v celoti objavljeno v prvi številki revije Outsider (maj 2015). Spremlja ga intervju s fotografom Matejem Lozarjem.

Naroči revijo Outsider.

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