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23 januarja, 2018

Agata Tomažič: V šivankinem ušesu

S stene se smehlja Mona Liza. Ne kakršnakoli, temveč izvezena iz pisanih niti – gobelin. V nasprotju z razvpitejšo sestro iz Louvra se te lahko dotakneš in dotik je mehek. Dotakneš se lahko pravzprav čisto vsega, kar je v tej prodajalni – in večina stvari je na otip prijetnih, mehkih. Takšna kot vzdušje v prostoru, ki je prežeto z nekakšno tiho šiviljsko vzajemnostjo. V trgovino s pozamenterijo na začetku Trubarjeve ceste v Ljubljani ne zaidejo ljudje, ki bi se jim mudilo ali bi izstopali z nastopaštvom ali nadutostjo; taki oblačila kupujejo v trgovinah s konfekcijo. Laže gre kamela skozi šivankino uho, kakor bogataš pride nakupovat pozamenterijo.

Pojma nimam, od kod izvira beseda pozamenterija, se mi je pa že kot otroku, ko sem jo komajda znala izdaviti, usedla v srce. Skupaj z izrazom pa tudi vse, kar ta označuje: gumbi, sukanci, elastike vseh barv in širin, sponke, pisane bucike, lesene gobice za krpanje nogavic. Vse to je bivalo v veliki škatli, do katere nisem ne smela ne mogla seči. Ko sem postala večja (škatla pa se je zmanjšala), se mi je počasi odpirala kot Pandorina skrinjica. In šiviljske klice so se za vedno zasidrale vame.

Pozamenterijski artikli so se pred selitvijo na sedanjo lokacijo bohotili pod mogočnim secesijskim stopniščem ene najlepših ljubljanskih veleblagovnic, Centromerkurja. Toda kot sta šiviljstvo in krojaštvo za dame in gospode že pred desetletji morala priznati premoč (in politično nadvlado) tovarnam s konfekcijo, ki je v tovarnah zaposlovala na tisoče parov pridnih rok socialističnih delavk, je napočil tudi čas, ko so se svitki z blagom, škatle z gumbi in ostali šiviljski pripomočki skupaj z domačo konfekcijo iz Centromerkurja morali umakniti izdelkom tuje oblačilne industrije, za katere bi nekateri kupci najbrž najraje videli, da bi bila etiketa proizvajalca prišita na zunanji strani.

Nakup pozamenterije je politično dejanje, je znak nestrinjanja z materialistično naravnano miselnostjo, ki veleva, da se oblačilo, kadar mu odpade gumb ali se pokvari zadrga, zavrže in brž kupi novo.

In ker je v poznem kapitalizmu 21. stoletja čas dobrina, ki jo je – tako kot vse ostalo – mogoče do decimalke natančno ovrednotiti, je odločitev, da si bo človek oblačilo sešil z lastnimi rokami, namesto da bi si ga šel kupit, še tem bolj subverzivna. Prodajalna s pozamenterijo pa v luči teh spoznanj prej kot shajališče razočaranih gospodinj, ki se v trenutkih najglobljega obupa tolažijo s krpanjem nogavic, postane nič več in nič manj kot preddverje družbenega gibanja. Mona Liza na steni že ve, zakaj se tako skrivnostno smehlja. Najslajše se smeje tisti, ki se zadnji smeje – ali tisti, ki se mu je uspelo zgnesti skozi šivankino uho.

Piše: Agata Tomažič

Riše: Milanka Fabjančič

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