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Arhitektura,Urbano
/
4 julija, 2019

Portret mesta: Istanbul

Pazi, pada!

Prva stvar, ki pade v oči, ko stopiš z avtobusa, ki te pripelje z letališča tik ob Taksim – glavni mestni trg modernega Istanbula, je gromozanska gradbena jama. Monumentalna praznina v mestu, kjer so te prava redkost. Na skrajnem desnem robu na pol dokončana skeletna, betonska konstrukcija, drugje vsaj nekaj deset metrov globoka luknja, iz katere se mogočno dviga skupina žerjavov. V ozadju vrsta strnjenih hiš, šele pogled na njih razkrije pravo razsežnost praznine.  Že na vožnji z avtobusom z letališča je moč opaziti vrste žerjavov, ob katerih stojijo bolj ali manj dokončane stolpnice, ograjena stanovanjska naselja in velike gradbene jame.

Na drugi strani Taksima sta še dve gradbišči. Na tistem večjem naj bi zrasel prenovljeni kulturni center Atatürk, za zaščitno ograjo spet sameva gradbena jama. Na drugi strani trga končujejo streho nove mošeje. Kasneje izvem, da je ta mošeja skoraj edino obratujoče gradbišče v centralnem okraju, imenovanem Beyoğlu, večina drugih gradbišč po zlomu nepremičninskega trga stagnira.

Na prvem poglobljenem ogledu enega od predelov mesta, nas pozno dopoldan pozdravi skupina gasilcev, policajev, novinarjev in nekaj radovednih meščanov predela Balat. Porušila se je hiša. Od svojih turških prijateljev, ki niso vidno pretreseni, izvem, da se v Istanbulu poruši vsaj ena hiša na teden. Na srečo se ponavadi porušijo zapuščene hiše. Zapuščenih in dotrajanih hiš je v Istanbulu veliko. Med že porušenimi so stare lesene, zgrajene še po tradicionalnih načelih, neoklasicistične in tudi tiste zgrajene v drugi polovici dvajsetega stoletja. Med še stoječimi, a zapuščenimi in zaradi varnosti zapečatenimi stavbami lahko tako na primer najdemo daleč najboljši primer art nouveauja v Turčiji, ki se nahaja kar na glavni turistični ulici.

Pravi nabor nekdaj sicer čudovitih, danes pa zapuščenih, na pol podrtih in povsem porušenih hiš lahko najdemo le petnajst minut hoje od Taksima, v predelu imenovanem Tarlabaşı. Nekdaj sicer pretežno grška in armenska soseska, danes nudi zatočišče priseljencem, brezdomcem, obsežni transgender skupnosti in drugim, ki so potisnjeni na skrajni družbeni rob. Gre za enega najbolj slikovitih predelov Istanbula, ki pa ga danes načenjata revščina in kriminal. Mestne oblasti so zavestno dvignile roke. Dobička željni mestni veljaki in developerji, razliko je včasih težko določiti, potrpežljivo čakajo, da se soseska podre sama od sebe. Včasih jih skušnjava prevelika in stavbni kare podrejo, še preden se ta sam poruši, saj zaradi »prestižne« lokacije območje predstavlja velik neizkoriščen potencial.

Podirajoča se soseska Tarlabaşı je samo najbolj skrajni del podirajočega se Istanbula. Dotrajane hiše se rušijo kar same od sebe, če se rušijo prepočasi, jih zrušijo ambiciozni developerji, ki v želji po hitrem zaslužku hitijo s poceni in nekvalitetno gradnjo, ki se v kratkem podre tudi sama, če jih ne prehiti kriza, s katero se Istanbul spet okiti z novo, impozantno praznino in obogateno silhueto.

Pohlep in nevzdržna želja po hitrem dobičku sta v nekaj preteklih desetletjih ključno zaznamovala Istanbul. Zraslo je mnogo nebotičnikov in spektakularnih nakupovalnih centrov, četudi središče mesta zaznamujejo predvsem velike gradbene jame, ograje in številni žerjavi, ki v silhueti predela Beyoğlu delajo družbo zvonikom, minaretom in slavnemu stolpu Galata.

 

Besedilo in fotografije: Blaž Šenica

Outsider#18: Mediji

 

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Revija Outsider

Revija Outsider je prejela Plečnikovo medaljo za prispevek k bogatitvi arhitekturne kulture. Kot piše v utemeljitvi, sta revija in spletni portal Outsider nov slovenski medij o kulturi in družbi, ki si prizadeva za poznavalski in hkrati distanciran pogled na prostor. Ekipa arhitektov, ki skrbi za njen obstoj, je nagrajena za inovativnost pri širjenju zavedanja o arhitekturi in prostoru v kontekstu širše kulture in širše javnosti ter za vztrajnost na vsebinski in finančni neodvisnosti.

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