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Kavarne
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2 junija, 2016

SKODELICA SPOMINOV IN KOŠČEK TRADICIJE

Od kavarn v Ljubljani mi je iz otroštva v spominu najbolj ostala  kavarna Evropa. Njen obisk je vedno sledil bolj ali manj uspešnemu nakupu torte za moj rojstni dan, katere desant nanjo je vodila moja trmoglava babica. V kavarniški slaščičarni so sloveli po odličnih tortah. Med čakanjem na vrsto, je bilo dovolj časa, za pogajanja katera torta je najboljša. Ne vem, če se mi je babica kdaj pustila pregovoriti, torte smo pojedli, takega ali drugačnega okusa. Veliko večji vtis je name pustil obisk kavarne za tem. Ponavadi smo z mami in babico sedele na koncu, ob oknu, v mehko oblazinjenih separejih, po stenah tapete , iz stropa so viseli lestenci in na koncu je bilo ogromno ogledalo. “Prava dunajska kavarna” je rekla mami. Babica je kadila cigareto in pihala oblačke ter zadovoljno naročala kavo in kakav. V medeninaste okvirje kavarniških miz so bile ujete marmorne plošče na katerih je srebrni pladenček zoprno zacvilil, če natakar ni temeljito počistil prav vseh kristalčkov sladkorja iz nje. Lepo zaviti Thonejevi stoli so stali okrog miz, ki so bile razpostavljene bolj v prostor in nepogrešljivo zelenje je bilo tako brezhibno, da sem vedno znova s prsti preverjala ali je pravo. Bila sem očarana. In sem še danes.

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Kavarne Evropa žal ni več, a tudi jaz nisem več v Ljubljani.  Danes je tu na Dunaju praznik in tako posebna priložnost za posedanje med zgodovino, tradicijo, obujanjem spominov in pitjem dobre kave. Demel je ena izmed takih kavarn, ki ima vse atribute tradicionalnih dunajskih kavarn, in jih je tako vestno po njih povzela tudi naša kavarna Evropa. Tapete na stenah, težke zavese, pritajena svetloba, leseni kavarniški stoli in marmorne mizice. Že ko vstopimo v Demel, nam je jasno, da je to kavarna, kjer se ne govori na glas, kjer dame sedijo s prekrižanimi nogami, če nosijo krilo ali ne, in jim gospodje odmikajo stole, ko si grejo na “Toalete” popraviti šminko. Spodnji del zaseda hišna prodajalna, bogato opremljena, z lestencem na sredi in ogledali vsenaokrog. Na enem delu strežejo mesno sirne narezke, domače pripravljene torte, in sladoled, drugi del je namenjen prodaji čokolad, čokoladnih in žele bonbonov. Njihova embalaža me spomni na darila, prinešena domov iz dedkovih popotovanj.

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Ko se mimo gruče turistov, ki se zataknejo že v hišni prodajalni slaščic, v pritličju, povzpnem po zavitih lesenih stopnicah v salone v prvem nadstropju, se mi ob mimohodu odpre pogled na veličastno slaščičarsko delavnico. Na velikih belih marmornih pultih slaščičarji pripravljajo torte, jih oblivajo s čokolado, krasijo z marcipanom. Nekje na steni visijo modeli za peko. Vse je tako čisto in tako očarljivo. Dobim prostor v svetlo modri sobi z velikim belim lestencem iz muranskega stekla. Po tleh star parket, ki so ga podrsale že mnoge pete visoke dunajske družbe, zlizani čevlji naključnih turistov in trendovske sneaker-ke Japonskih blogerk, ki so šle s fotoaparatom po evropskih prestolnicah. Sedim ob oknu. Na zeleni žametno tapicirani klopi. Kleiner Brauner in torta, tokrat po moji izbiri. Dvignjena od ulice in vrveža spodaj, se v miru posvetim obredu in opazujem ljudi okrog sebe…

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Piše: Špela Leskovic

 

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