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18 septembra, 2018

Agata Tomažič: Tik pod Nebotičnikom

V mestu obstajajo kraji, katerih blagodejnosti se zares zavemo šele v sezoni monsuna. V vremensko ugodnejših razmerah jim namenimo kvečjemu pogled, bolje rečeno ošvrk, ko drvimo mimo njih ali skoznje; šele ob povodnji sprejmemo zavetje, ki nam ga že ves čas tako širokogrudno ponujajo. Eden takih krajev je pasaža pod Nebotičnikom, ki ji posvečam ta zapis v znamenje hvaležnosti in da bi se vsaj malo odkupila za dolga leta, ko sem jo zanemarjala.

Ampak ni bilo vedno tako ... Bilo je obdobje, ko nam je korak vzdrhtel že v Argentinskem parku, kajti vedeli smo, da nas v tisti veži čaka nekaj nepozabnega: sladoledni špageti s prelivom iz gozdnih sadežev, ki je po barvi nalašč spominjal na bolonjsko omako! V osrednjem delu pasaže, tam, kjer se prehod razširi in vanj skozi steklene plošče na kupolasti strehi posveti svetloba, je deloval Sladoledni vrt. Sladoledni špageti so bila le ena izmed drznih in okusnih jedi na jedilniku slaščičarne, ki je konec osemdesetih krepko štrlela iz socialistične puščobe in zato v poletnih mesecih, po zaključku šolskega leta, pokala po šivih od nadobudnih šolarjev, ki so jih starši tako želeli nagraditi za dober šolski uspeh.

Potem se je vse začelo dogajati z vrtoglavo hitrostjo. Osemdeseta so se prelila v devetdeseta, pomanjkanje izbire pa je nabuhnilo v pretirano ponudbo. Tudi otroci s(m)o, jasno, sledili razvoju in začeli vihati nos nad sadnimi kupami kot edinim darilom za spričevalo. Sladoledni vrt se je stopil, edina sled, ki je ostala, so umetelne ograje, ki nosijo nezmotljivi oblikovalski pečat osemdesetih let.

Danes je gostinska ponudba v pasaži Nebotičnika navzoča le še v obliki navadne kavarne. Navadne? Ne, ni čisto navadna, saj vam poleg potrebe po kofeinu omogoča potešiti tudi potrebo po nikotinu, in to v zavetrju, kakršnega se kadilci v teh neizprosnih časih smejo nadejati le redko. Že zaradi tega je vedrenje v pasaži Nebotičnika ena boljših stvari, ki vas lahko doleti med monsunskim deževjem. V bistvu je v tem hodniku skromnih izmer poskrbljeno za skoraj vse potrebe, ki so po Maslowu v malce nižjih plasteh piramide: najesti se res ne boste mogli, a nihče ne more trditi, da podhod ne poskrbi za nego in razvajanje telesa in duha. Le čemu drugemu rabijo turistična agencija, galeriji, kozmetični salon in fotografski studio? Da frizerskega salona sploh ne omenjamo! In še to, da je samo za moške, pravzaprav bolj brivski salon, mu lahkega srca odpustimo, saj se pred vhodom vrti še eden zadnjih nezmotljivih brivskih izveskov: palica z rdeče-modro spiralo, s katero so brivci včasih tudi v Ljubljani, menda pa nasploh že od srednjega veka, že od daleč naznanjali, s katero obrtjo se ukvarjajo.

In če vas vremenske neprilike primorajo v preživljanje časa tik pod Nebotičnikom v nočnem času, se vam bo razkrilo dvojno življenje pasaže, zaradi katerega je v mojih očeh ta prostor postal še tem bolj plemenit in nujno potreben: ponoči namreč obratuje kot samski dom za golobe. Urbane ptice so si našle prenočiše na nekakšnih rešetkah pod stropom, od koder z gumbkastimi očmi sumničavo pogledujejo na ljudi, ki jih v temi zanese v njihovo spalnico. Samo izjemen trdosrčnež bi jih od tam podil – navsezadnje si tudi oni, podobno kot kadilci, le še stežka kje najdejo zatočišče.

Piše: Agata Tomažič

Riše: Milanka Fabjančič

 

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